Simon Cracker SS25: A Collection That Redefines Principles and Fashion
The Simon Cracker Spring/Summer 2025 collection, unveiled at Milan Fashion Week Men’s in June 2024, is far more than just a fashion show. It is a powerful statement reflecting the deep convictions and creative visions of Filippo L.M. Biraghi and Simone Botte. Titled "A Matter of Principle," this collection offers a subtle yet profound commentary on modern society, where principles are often viewed as rigid, unchanging rules that complicate communication and human relationships.
The central motif of this collection is the "knot," inspired by the book *Knots* by renowned psychologist Ronald D. Laing, published in 1970. Laing’s work explores the complex psychological patterns and communication barriers that arise from rigid principles. By translating this concept into their fashion, Biraghi and Botte have created a collection that, at first glance, appears playful, but on closer inspection, raises deep societal questions. The knots visible in the garments symbolize both physical and metaphorical entanglements—they represent the ways in which people bind themselves and others with rigid beliefs and rules that are often difficult to unravel.
Each piece in the collection is crafted almost entirely through knotting techniques. Fluttering fabric panels, cords, ribbons, and laces are not just decorative elements; they symbolize the connections people make with each other and the constraints they impose on themselves. This dual meaning—unity and ornamentation on one hand, confinement and restraint on the other—is the heart of the Simon Cracker SS25 collection. It invites the viewer to reflect on their own entanglements in life and to question the often unspoken principles that guide their actions.
The color palette of the collection is as thoughtful and layered as its designs. It features four "nervous" tones: absolute black, symbolizing depth and the unknown; artificial blue, reflecting the technological artificiality of our modern world; acid green, representing the aggressive, toxic side of society; and violet, adding a mystical, almost spiritual dimension. These colors are not chosen at random but are meant to develop the "wrong" dyeing effects from the previous season, offering a visual challenge that is as unorthodox as the principles they question.
Another highlight of the Simon Cracker SS25 collection is the collaboration with the historic Italian brand Australian. This partnership is a prime example of Simon Cracker's commitment to sustainability. The designers were given access to an impressive stock of semi-assembled garments, known as deadstock. From these materials, Biraghi and Botte created an exclusive capsule collection of black/neon technical garments that will not only be part of the Simon Cracker line but also the main collection for Australian SS25. These pieces are not just fashion statements but also a clear declaration of the necessity for sustainability and creativity in the fashion world.
The collaboration with DR. MARTENS, another icon of rebellious fashion, adds yet another dimension to the collection. The brand’s classic shoes have been transformed through Simon Cracker's unique "Crackerize" process. By manually dyeing, disassembling, and adding pins, badges, and old jewelry, each pair of shoes and every garment is a one-of-a-kind creation that embodies the essence of the brand: breaking with conventions to make way for something new.
The Simon Cracker SS25 collection is not just a fashion highlight; it is also a tribute to all the children who have become victims of rigid principles. It serves as a reminder of how unyielding principles often cause the weakest in our society to suffer. Through their designs, Biraghi and Botte make a powerful statement about the need for empathy, flexibility, and critical thinking—values that are often overlooked in a world increasingly governed by rigid principles and rules.
Since its founding in 2010, Simon Cracker has made a name for itself as a pioneer in upcycled fashion. What began as Simone Botte's idea to merge art and fashion by repurposing forgotten garments and deadstock materials has evolved into a brand that sets not only aesthetic but also ethical standards. With the addition of Filippo L.M. Biraghi in 2020, Simon Cracker has taken another step towards the mainstream without losing its rebellious soul. Participation in prestigious competitions like "Who is On Next?," presentations at Altaroma, and inclusion in the official calendar of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana since 2021 are just a few milestones that highlight the growing significance of the brand in the fashion world.
Simon Cracker stands for fashion that celebrates individuality and rejects stereotypes. The SS25 collection is yet another example of how fashion can be used to tell stories and spark societal debates. It invites the viewer not only to admire the outward beauty of the garments but also to recognize the deeper meaning and messages hidden in every knot, every color, and every detail. In a time when principles are often considered inviolable, Simon Cracker challenges us to question these principles and embrace the freedom to untangle our own knots.
